After traveling into Chiapas and spending some time in jungle-like Palenque and then San Cristobal de la Resistancia (stories will follow), it was finally time to involve in the basic life of locals. From where the colectivo dropped us in the small town of Teopisca, we started heading towards a farm we had found in the internet, equipped with only a short description Alice had given us: "take a tuk-tuk and go to ojo de aqua, tell the driver 'hasta la cadena' and then walk up the hill for 15-20mins until a cobb house on the right side with a sign 'temascal'..." Since many streets in smaller (and bigger) places in Mexico don't have names and probably because I'm less worried when traveling, I didn't question these informations or asked for more. Our tuktuk-driver didn't really seem to know where that cadena (chain) is, but dropped us right in front of one, so we loaded up our big bags and started walking uphill, fast because we had only 1,5hrs of daylight left. Then the road goes downhill. Wait, what? Also a lot of houses here, hm, maybe we're on the wrong track because there is more than one chain around here... It took inquiring 3 different people and walking for about 45mins before we were back where we started but found a helpful farmer who knew the place of our desire and drew us a map. Then it took almost another hour and a steep hill until we finally reached the rancho. Alice had already been worried and told us, usually everbody in town knows the cadena... And we'd thought, maybe the thin description lets only the strongest and smartest workers reach their destination. Whatever, once we saw the people and the place, any upset feelings disappeared and I felt like Christmas had come. The piece of land was tranqil and beautiful, 1ha of bushes, trees and some meadows, the little farm house sitting right on a little stream. Which is also the one and only source of running water, the necessary heat comes from the gas stove or fire, energy for lights is given by the sun. That's it! Now power outlets, wifi or even a bathroom. Chilas had started building the house when Alice was pregnant with their boy Tanok (now 2 years old) and now it's growing bit by bit. When I told Nadine back home what we were doing all day long, for example collecting firewood, getting water or helping building walls, she said:"You don't even have walls?" Well, we do, there is a room for voluneers and one for the family where we also cook and sit at night in front of the fire. But the kitchen needed some extra pieces, a heap of clay here, some plastic covers there, how fascinating to help building an actual house!
But wait, why do I keep mentioning fires, isn't it hot in Mexico? Hm, we wish, especially at night, when it's 6°C and we have to remember we're at 2000m altitude. Right now the weather treats us nicely, though and sends warm sunshine during the day, allowing us to walk around in shorts and to take cold baths from the river. We've already spent about 2 weeks up there, and because I don't wanna bore myself by writing too many details that are better understood on any photo*. it's highlight time again!
Fri Jan 26th:
First morning, woken up by Tanok's excited voice, the sound of the small stream and the birds in the trees. Did I say how lucky I feel? The day goes by so quickly, filled with easy work and lots of dog cuddling.
In front of Alice and Chilas' property is another one where clay houses and some kind of comunity are built. That's where Kevin lives, who usually helps us and who is Tanok's favourite playing partner, he calls him KABIN!!!
Sat Jan 27th:
Who needs a bathroom or shower when you can take a hot bath outside under the stars? Together Maik and I are soaking in the hot water, while candles flicker and the jungle night around us takes a deep breath. Yep, solid choice of place!
Sun Jan 28th:
Driving the bumpy road into dowtown to go to the market, and we're shopping like savages. As we inquire the price for a pumpkin, the vendors just give it to us for free. Even Chilas is surprised, me too, though, really, the people here are always super friendly. Did you know that Chiapas, the state we're currently in, is one of the poorest in Mexico?
Mon Jan 29th:
The sun is on holiday and left us with slight rains and cold winds. But there's always enough work to be done inside and a warm fire at the end of the day. Also maybe it's the hard work, but the vegetarian/ vegan food Alice always makes is so yummy, I start wondering what I used to need a fridge for. Also every unexpected guest I view with suspicous eyes in case they stay for dinner and we have to share our chapatis.
Tues Jan 30th:
The whole crowd goes off to collect firewood in a steady drizzle, but chopping off branches keeps us warm. We pass by 2 horses and the foal looks at me curiously, I feel like establish a connection and that we'll be best friends... Look how it stares at me with big eyes, unmovingly! Then the foal starts peeing and runs away after, maybe laughing a little at me from the distance.
Wed Jan 31th:
Full moon and it's energy is good for temascal, the Mexican steam bath. At our neighbor's place, lava stones are heated up in a fire and then brought into a small igloo-like house, where we pour water on them and sing hippie songs, sweating and admiring the sparkles and the fine smell of pine sap.
Thur Feb 1st:
Painting the kitchen walls inside with a mixture of chalk and water. Incredible difference and impressive how you nature seems to supply everything you need.
Suddenly a whole lot of ants appear out from the woods, surrounding a house in hundreds of thousands like moslems the Kabah. We keep a close eye on them, fearing for our unprotected food, but they just pass by, maybe looking for another home.
Fri Feb 2nd:
One of these nights where Chilas, Kevin, Maik and I stay up late, hanging out in the new or old kitchen, and also Alice joins after Tanok is sleeping. The language barrier between our pequeño español and Chilas' little English is easily overcome by two dice-like pigs in a frisbee, walking barefoot over wine while smoking some churros and sipping mezcal.
Sat Feb 3rd:
After half a day of work, the family, Kevin, Maik and us go on a small hike in the hills around us. Off the beaten track, through the bushes and over a fence we walk, trees are climbed and a baby mouse is saved from our dogs' fangs who were sniffing in a hole. Without a plan and taking some detours, we make it back to the house just for sunset.
Sun Feb 4th:
After smoking out some hornets (and our clothes) to keep them from building a nest in the ceiling in our room, Maik and I go down to Teopisca with our farmers, who continue on to San Cristobal where they live the other half of the week, so we'll look after the rancho until their return on Thursday. But first it's market and internet time! The quesadillas we eat on a food stand near the market are accompanied with free drinks and a nice chat with the owners, who invite us to their home later. And if we thought this was the highlight of the day, the pearls of Mexican friendliness had another treasure in the human form of Augustin, friend of Chilas. As Maik and I wanted to watch the Superbowl and thought about spending the night in a hotel, Chilas just asked his friend and drew us a map how to get to his place. So we were honored with the big flat screen from the bed room, a piece of cake and the general hospitality of Augustin, who we hadn't met before and who doesn't even care about American Football. Imagine taking in 2 foreign Mexicans so they can watch a boring sport in your home, because that's the level of friendliness here!
Mon Feb 5th:
The first day alone on the farm goes well, we work in the walls with good tunes, have a nice lunch with Kevin and others from the community and spent a ridiculously romantic evening in front of the fire, taking turns making the cat purr and listening to long forgotten music on my mp3-player.
Tue Feb 6th:
Maik's stomach decided at night: this food shall pass! He spent half the night feeding semi-processed food to the dogs and the day in bed while I did the laudry, sewed clothes, cooked food and -don't worry, feminists- started organizing the compost. I was a tiny bit worried about him since we were alone, without phone or medicine, but Kevin showed me a plant to make tea with that helps with digestion problems. Either it did or it was only a sun stroke, but Maik was better in the afternoon and we even had dinner together. I made chapati and black beans that were still a bit hard... (cause here they don't come in cans, ya know)
Wed Feb 7th:
That's today. Or at least the day I started writing this. Maik is fine again and we've walked down the hill for 30mins to do our ritual of buying a cup of fresh orange juice for less than 1euro and then settling in an internet cafe. We've tried a few but it's a small town and the connection is slow.
*I haven't really been able to upload many photos to my website, it takes an hour for 10, so let's hope the SD card survives until we're back somewhere better connected... But still there'll be a new album of Chiapas soon, if you want the photos of Palenque and San Cristobal before the stories.
For now, here are some mobile impressions of our paradise:
 |
| entrance to the farmhouse |
 |
| the new kitchen |
 |
| our room from outside |
 |
| garden behind the house |
 |
| after breakfast on the stream |
 |
| coolest hot tub in Mexico |
 |
| chopping firewood |
 |
| with inspirational Chilas and Alice |
No comments:
Post a Comment