Stacks and the City

Monday: After a restless night, I wake up at 10am and still feel very tired. Going back to sleep is tempting, being on a lose schedule, and yet I'm afraid to miss the hostel's free breakfast, even though it's pretty much rubbish. Maik's nauseous condition from last  night hasn't  much improved, so I hurry down the steps from our private quarter into the yard alone, to find the breakfast gone. At least there's still coffee and I'm given a yogurt after requesting nicely, find some free oats and mix it all with sweet blackberries. We'd bought a huge container of them yesterday for just 1€, and while I'm grinding panela (raw cane sugar) into my coffee, I'm calling mission breakfast: complete.

Being back in Guadalajara and once more enjoying the modern comforts of WiFi, Maik and I spend most of Monday morning chatting with friends and designing/ writing postcards. Since Maik isn't feeling fit, I have the perfect excuse to be lazy as well, and when my restlessness (read: hunger) finally gets the upper hand, I'm heading out the to market. My good friend google, who knows so much about me, points out on his map that there's one just four blocks away from here. It's already quite hot outside, 32°C or 90°F says my friend, and I try to walk in the shady part of the streets, which isn't very successful at 2pm. Apropos shady, after a detour to the ATM and with my pockets full of gold, I wonder if I should be concerned, you know, all on my own and being a WOMAN and all. But thoughts of robbery and violence are quickly dismissed, as I'm convinced that negative thinking will ultimately attract negative energies.

It's lunch time in Guadalajara, so as I enter the mercado municipal, many people are sitting along the multiple food stalls, munching their antojitos (appetizers), tacos, tamales and what not. Street food is usually cheap and we've had some great chats while ordering, so I wish I had more patience to find out other meat-free options besides quesadillas. This time I'm heading straight to one of the fruit and veggie stalls, take a small bowl, con permiso!, and fill it up with our usual choice of tomatoes, carrots, broccoli, potatoes, limes, champignons and apples. The señorita quickly weighs everything and with a frown calculates the delightful price of 33pesos (1,6€). Next stop: fresh green juice, jugo verde, which always gives me the satisfaction of ending my thirst and seems quite healthy. I ask the señor to make it without nopal (cactus), and while I'm still pondering what 'apio' was, he's already cutting celery. Ugh. After purchasing some tostadas and some cheese from the cremeria, I'm headed back to the hostel, sipping my quickly warming up refreshment. I'm thinking of the few things on my to-do-list:
1)  Uploadingphotos from Easter and the farm.
2) Writing my blog about the frisbee tournament and Mexico City.

Let's start with the latter. Surely the fun of both events is better described personally, to ensure you really understand how we loved hanging out with our fellow frisbee people. But I wanna at least mention the highlights!

Equinoccio (march 16th-19th):
- The party! Though nowadays I'm feeling too old to go crazy every other Saturday and parties don't interest me as much, the one at the beach was damn cool, especially because of the two live bands. They covered classic rock and Mexican rock/ reggae pieces and the crowd was flipping out, singing along and dancing all night.
- The beer race! It was held in the camping ground's swimming pool and rarely did I see such an enthusiastic crowd, cheering and screaming as the participants swim, drink and play flip cup.
- Getting there: the beach wasn't gonna be reached by public transport and as we got of the bus at the junction, waiting for a taxi to randomly show up, a car just stopped without any actions from Maik or me. A woman got out and decided to jog the 6kms so there was space for us to be taken right to the fields.
- The spirit! people were fun and yet committed. Almost no calls, no aggressive playing, but spirit and MVP games, where afterwards you hug all the people who had chosen you. And the organisation at the campground always made sure I didn't stay hungry during a meat feast and that I had my coffee before the 8.30am game, although breakfast wasn't served before 9am.
- happy encounters: We hang out with a few players from other teams as well, as it was easy to meet people - especially when everyone starts drinking or smoking even before breakfast. Also many brought their dogs to the tournament, cuddle alarm! And my highlight was, while sitting on the beach sipping a beer and watching games on Sat evening, spotting a whale in the distance. So chido, also because we didn't see any on the whale watch tour near Zipolite!

The organisation of Equinoccio was a bit chaotic, we never quite knew when or where we'd be playing and different people gave different informations. The fields halfway underwater were kinda cool, though it was especially hard for our beginners to only use a narrow field. Our pick-up team 'agentes libres' were tons of fun and I would play with these people again, just rather as a fixed roster instead of pick-up players randomly showing up, or not. The food was a bit on the expensive side and not filling; also showers were sparse, so Maik and I played the hippie card and used an outdoor shower (nobody complained). After all, I would recommend going to Equinoccio, especially if your priority is partying over playing.

Mexico City (march 19th-26th):
Yet again, Maik and I were super lucky to have met awesome people at the tournament, who had space in their car to go to Mexico City and a place to stay on top of that. Literally, as we camped on the rooftop outside Itzel's and Axel's apartment, one of the coolest tent spots during this trip! The couple just had a small 1 bedroom flat, but we were totally happy to sleep outside, and besides, why is it usually those who don't have much are sharing the most?
We ended up keeping them company for a whole week, and as I fear we slightly imposed ourselves on them or at least stretched the limits of their hospitality, Maik and I tried to reciprocate their kindness by cooking yummy meals and entertaining Boris the cat. Luckily we shared many interests with Axel and Itzel, such as playing boardgames, and 'Puerto Rico' held us awake for many a night. Other highlights of our time in CDMX include:
- going to frisbee practice at a public space on concrete floor, in between some fountains and a building, until the rain got too heavy and the lightnings too many
- watching the beautiful movie Coco together, which is animated and set in Mexico
- visiting the museum of anthropology and learning more about the cultures, which remains we had seen on different Mayan/ Aztecan ruins
- going to the huge park Chapultepec and sitting on the lawn, because many parks in Mexico are fenced off and there's nowhere to sit on the ground
- surviving the metro, as the doors close automatically and are totally ignorant of anybody still trying to get in or out, so people regress to a 'survival of the quickest' kinda scenario
- drinking great espresso and making healthy food, generally having many shopping options and even finding macramé threads at the third market we looked at
- a personal city tour by Axel, visiting Itzel at a cool think lab, where also two others from our team at Equinoccio work, and then having lunch together

Hopefully we'll get to see Itzel and Axel when they embark on their first ever visit to Europe, and until then I wanna repay the kindness they showed us to other travelers coming to my city (wherever that will be). To me it makes the difference of feeling at home or not, when I'm talent in and can share a city with someone instead of just being a customer and check off tourist stops from a to-do list.

Now some closure? Wrapping up this post? Sure!
It's Tuesday now, Maik is feeling better and watching soccer (duh!), I've chatted with friends and feel closer to some of them now than I ever did at home. I'm not ashamed to admit that I grave social connections, that it makes me happy to share with my friends and that close connections are important nutrition to my soul's satisfaction.
I understand we're supposed to calculate the dosage of affection we give others, to stay in control of our relationships and therefor will neither be left alone nor exploited by them. At least that's my interpretation: don't be too rude but also don't be too friendly, mind your own business and be your own champion. Fair enough, and yet most sad people I talk to feel lonely and under pressure to perform, but nobody complains that they have been taken advantage of. Of course I don't wanna keep giving to ungrateful people and I was upset for the longest time after our old flatmate took advantage of our forgiving tolerance towards his destructive and ignorant behaviour. I was upset with myself for not setting boundaries, not taking up action.
Still, I don't believe that too much kindness is our main problem in this world or that friendliness should be restricted to those who we believe deserve it. I don't know why and how I deserved it, but the unconditional kindness of strangers has left a deep impression in my heart, not only here in Mexico. So I wanna give back some love, as I believe it's the very essential to, well, happiness! I wonder how many of our problems may originate from a lack of love, or how Dean Koontz explains it wonderfully in 'Mr. Murder':
"In the womb there's a perfect place never to be found again; as long as we remain unborn, we know nothing of love and cannot know the misery that arises from being deprived of it."

Fri night at the beach tournament

Camping right on the beach

Rooftop camping spot in CDMX

3D printer at Itzel's work

City tour with Axel

Boris occupying our tent

At the museum of anthropology

PS: In my blurred memory of the events in Mexico City, I forget to mention something. While writing this post, I had a feeling there was an impression that didn't make it onto this blog: what about the earthquakes? 

We learned that the city has actually been built on a lake, so the ground is quite soft. We saw some streets closed off for maintenance and many buildings leaning to one side even downtown. In Axel and Itzel's neighborhood, the last earthquake had been quite strong and I felt shaky myself every time we climbed up the narrow steps. But people here seem not too worried about more ''sismos': "Whatever still stands, will also stand after the next one."

Feeling bad on a good day - Der Tag der toten Enden

They've changed the time here in Mexico, too, so I wake up at 8am instead of 7. It's dark in the hostel room without windows and still half an hour before coffee is made, so I spend my time reading messages on my phone. Yesterday I didn't even wanna go back to a city, after almost another week in the jungle, in Xilitla hostel and the campground on the river near the Tamul waterfalls. Yesterday I was upset, because I wanted nature, to be sleeping outdoors (well, in a tent) and to have lots of space. But then, how happy I was when we came to the hostel in San Luis Potosí, being online again, talking to friends...*bing!
By the way, for those wondering what happened at Easter: Mexico happened! All of them! We tried finding a quiet place for semana santa, aka the week the whole country goes on holiday, but because we're depending on public transport, Maik and I ended up right in the middle of it! And since personal space is more of an abstract idea here, there was no way to escape the crowds. So we were prepared and embraced the experience of camping amidst hundreds of people, frequently chatting with others, being supplied with German beer (Köstritzer!) by one group and with quesadillas from another. There was Mexican music blasting the whole day, children playing joyfully in the river and BBQs everywhere, and I was mostly happy about it. But I also hated when people chose to pitch their tent centimeters away from ours, despite having about 1ha of space, or when they kept asking, "De donde son?", when we just wanted to swim in the river. *bing! Yet, I'd say I had a great time at Easter, even without cellphone reception, a shower or the reliability of good food. *bing!
That's the third contradiction-alarm. So I went to the hostel's roof terrace with my coffee and started thinking about how the heck I'll share my experiences...

~~~

Ich weiß gar nicht womit ich anfangen soll, es gibt so viel zu schreiben aber irgendwie nichts zu sagen, und damit wären wir ja schon bei den ersten Widersprüchen. Es ist total viel passiert und trotzdem weiß ich nicht, was davon erwähnenswert wäre. Klar schreibe ich den Blog für mich, damit ich später mal sagen kann: "Da ist es doch, das geile Leben von dem Du immer geträumt hast!" Aber darüber hinaus möchte ich auch ein Botschafter fremder Welten sein, aus humanistischem Blickwinkel und garniert mit meinen typischen Fettnäpfchen. (zB als ich den Busfahrer entrüstet angehe, der Preis könne ja gar nicht sein und sogar lang und breit erkläre warum, bis ich merke, er meinte den Betrag für 2 Personen)
Ich frage mich schon ab und zu, wer liest das eigentlich, was denken die Leute, außer natürlich, dass ich einen an der Waffel habe, aber das ist ja schon bekannt... Manchmal erscheinen einem ja die Geschichten von anderen Leuten so weit weg als wenn es auf einem anderen Planeten passiert wäre. Dennoch geht es nicht ums Überzeugen hier, es geht um Inspiration. Und da es aber nichts langweiligeres gibt als über bloggen zu bloggen kommen wir jetzt direkt mal zum Thema. Reisen.

Und jetzt folgen zwölf Gründe, warum Reisen total Hit (hip) ist und du dir nächstes Jahr spätestens unbedingt dafür Zeit nehmen solltest [insert sarkastischen Unterton]. Jedenfalls fragt man sich schon, warum in die Ferne reisen, wo man die Leute nicht versteht, sein Hab und Gut mit sich rumschleppt und sich selbst auch noch durch die Gegend, unwissend ob das Ziel einem gefallen wird, der Weg dahin existiert und was eigentlich, wenn mir jemals jemand die Kreditkarte klaut? Doch trotz aller Widrigkeiten denke ich, gerade lange Reisen lohnen, denn:

Erstens, man hat endlich mal so richtig Zeit für sich selbst. Jetzt bloß aufpassen, dass man sich selber nicht auf die Nerven geht oder Seiten entdeckt, die man bisher nur gerüchteweise über sich gehört hatte.
Zweitens, man kann tun und lassen was man will, va wenn die Geschäfte lange auf haben. Nur hoffentlich findet man immer was sinnvolles und günstiges zu tun, denn spätestens ab der dritten Stadt reißt einem die architektonisch wertvolle Kirche aus dem ypsten Jahrhundert nicht mehr vom Hocker.
Drittens, man lernt unglaublich viel dazu, neue Sprachen, neues Essen, neue Kulturen. Es sei denn, man hat ein gutes Buch oder ein Fernseher, aber dann kann man wenigstens den Wikipedia-Eintrag über den betroffenen Ort lesen. Tsts.
Viertens, es gibt einfach zu viele schöne Orte auf diesem Planeten als dass man immer zu Hause hocken sollte. Kann natürlich sein, dass dann die Heimat nicht mehr so attraktiv erscheint nach Strand, Dschungel, Wasserfällen und so weiter. The grass is always greener...
Fünftens, zu Hause verstrickt man sich immer wieder in irgendwelche sinnlosen Konflikten und, naja, manchmal eingebildeten Problemen, daher tut es gut einfach mal raus zu kommen. Aber wer glaubt, dass man vor seinen Problemen flüchten kann, wird sich plötzlich in einem Teufelskreis von Selbstvorwürfen in einem blöden Reisebus zwischen Handymusik und Bergkurvengeschaukel wiederfinden. Beispielsweise.
Sechstens, man lernt die Dinge zu schätzen, die man hat, statt sich ständig zu wünschen was man nicht kriegen kann. Vor allem, wenn man seinen Besitz in einen Rucksack stopfen muss! Leider haben unsere Rucksäcke die blöde Angewohnheit, Sachen zu verlieren bzw. sich nach Ankunft in neuen Gefilden mit sämtlichen Inhalt über eine möglichst weite Fläche zur gießen. #packennervt
Siebtens, man merkt, dass man viele Dinge gar nicht braucht, die man schon hat. Wenn man 6 Monate aus dem Rucksack lebt, steht man daheim dann vorm Kleiderschrank wie Alice im Wunderland.
Achtens, die Möglichkeit sich ständig neu zu erfinden ist verlockend, neue Wege gehen ist quasi das geflügelte Wort. Aber angesichts der vielen Möglichkeiten verliert man schnell die Orientierung, man zieht getroffene Entscheidungen in Zweifel und macht sich gerne unnötige Gedanken über die persönliche Zukunft, va. wo man Geld für die nächste Reise herkriegt.
Neuntens, der Blick von außen auf die eigene Kultur ist für mich unschätzbar wertvoll. Eigentlich ist es unsinnig Länder und Menschen zu vergleichen, Prinzip Äpfel und Birnen quasi, aber das tut der Erkenntnis um den eigenen Luxus daheim keinen Abbruch. Ja, liebe Leute, dass es den meisten von uns mächtig prächtig geht im edlen Deutschland, ist nicht nur ein Gerücht. Wenn ich manche Mexikaner Frage, ob sie nicht auch mal Europa besuchen wollen, gucken die mich nur mit großen Augen an...
Zehntens, das Verlassen der eigenen Komfortzone lohnt sich natürlich, der bereits erwähnte Krach hier und die Menschenmassen härten ab, die Freundlichkeit versöhnt. Außerdem schafft die räumliche Trennung von bisherigen Beziehungen Platz für neue tolle Personen, die man dann zu Hause wieder vermissen kann.
Elftens, ich könnte mir jetzt noch etwas aus den Fingern saugen, aber eigentlich habe ich schon alles gesagt und diese sinnlosen Listen mit irgendwelchen Sachen sind eigentlich nur ein Eyecatcher (Hallo Tim!).
Zwölftens, das ganze Leben ist ein Widerspruch. Ich dachte immer, das löst sich irgendwann auf und alle anderen haben immer voll den Plan, aber so eine Reise, zeigt einem, dass dies Quatsch ist. Auch hier drängen die Leute bei Abfahrt zur Gepäckabgabe im Reisebus, um dann als erste bei der Ankunft ihr ganz hinten liegendes Zeug wieder haben zu wollen. Und ich weiß auch nicht, was ich will. In der Natur leben, aber nicht auf jeglichen Komfort verzichten, ruhig, aber nicht abgeschieden, etc etc. Also Leute, die alles ganz genau zu wissen scheinen, komplexe Zusammenhänge in A und B einteilen, also die sind mir suspekt. Ich lebe lieber meine Widersprüche (seit neuestem) und laufe mit unrasierten Beinen und gezupften Augenbrauen durch die Gegend und schreibe auf Deutsch und Englisch.

~~~

And now, finally, un regalo:




1. Elton John: I'm Still Standing (timeless, awesome, Soundtrack to Sing! Ich dachte immer er singt, sasser still steht, fande ich super)

2.  Becky G, Bad Bunny: Mayores (a reggaeton classic and maybe the best example why itsi great not to understand lyrics)

3. The Great Lake Swimmers: Your Rocky Spine (heard on the bus, a song for our dear Judi - mandoline!!!)

4. Enrique Iglesias: Duele El Corazón (you thought he was long gone? Uhuh, he's played everywhere here!)

5. Los Angeles Azules: Miss Sentimientos (how I enjoy that kind of music on busses)

6. Mariachi music: Jarabe Tapatio (another popular choice on public transportation, bars, cantinas, shops etc)

7. Kings Of Leon: Walls (heard in a café in Monterrey, what more to say?)

8. Molotov: Chinga Tu Madre (covered by a rock band at the beach party during the frisbee tournament. Everybody was singing along!)

9. Bob Marley: Jammin (our favourite song of the rancho times with Alice and Chilas, even better if you sing, "we're German, and I hope you like Germans too")

Great day today, as we're going to a farm near Guadalajara, if only I wasn't sick. But as it's the first time in Mexico, I may bear my cold with dignity (haha) - and yes, the stories of the frisbee tournament and how we camped on a rooftop in Mexico City will follow!

~~~

Dictionary
De donde son? - Where are you from?
Regalo - gift/ present
Chinga tu madre - f**k your mother

Oh Oaxaca!

Raise your hands if you think it's time for a beach! After all that workout on the cold volcano, it's always sunny in Pijijiapan and when no one is looking we turn on the a/c in our hotel room, lying naked on our beds and skyping out our latest adventures. Blame it on the tv, but we fall straight back to laziness and I try not to go insane as there's nothing to do here... Well, except taking a trip to the beach, which promptly provides us with more encounters with friendly and hospitable people, aka Mexicans. Ok, we get overcharged using a small boat to cross the lagoon, but as Maik and I have a beer on the beach bar, we quickly get invited to another table to share Schnaps and Stoff...erm... food with an elderly couple and a young woman, Eliana. We're offered to spend the easter holidays, semana santa, with them and to come for breakfast in their taqueria the next day. I spontaneously teach Eliana to swim and she later helps me buying a new Mexican SIM card for easier communications with couch surfers etc.
In Pijijiapan we find a laundry service where the business room is joint with the living room and the whole family curiously watches us making our inquiry. And the next day we get super lucky that the opening hours aren't taken too seriously and we're handed back our clothes on Sat afternoon, as the nightbus for Sunday had already been booked. As many times before the less organized lifestyle here comes in handy for us travelers.

So after 1,5 months in chingon* Chiapas, we reach Oaxaca (state) by the end of February, going straight to Oaxaca (city) on an unpleasant night bus ride, where the bus driver probably thought we're in a colectivo, speeding up the windy roads. But we know we've come to a good place when even the search for a hostel and walking through town after maybe 3 hours of sleep feels enjoyable. And again we get our desired hostel without having it booked in advance, que chido! Both Maik and I are happy to be back in an urban space that is not too hectic, but provides the worldly comforts like fast internet connections, shopping opportunities (like my lost SD-card adapter) and of course social interactions. Who needs a travel guide when other travels in our hostel provide up-to-date and first hand information? "Oh, you're going to San Jose de Pacifico next? Don't bother about the mushrooms, there expensive and don't really work." Or that other dude just dropping a bud into Maik's hands - it has found us again! - and we're making good use of the roof terrace after that. In Oaxaca I'm itching to explore, so we take tours to the ruins at sunny Monte Alban, the impressive botanical gardens, the small textile museum and downtown with it's bustling sqare and many cafés. Though not a great fan of crowds, I thoroughly enjoy watching the colourful bunch of people, vendors and above all kids running around. In Mexico I found many children basically "free ranging", even late at night, which deems a good sign in terms of trust. On the other hand I'm afraid that all the kids selling stuff in the streets or sometimes asking for money are not given the chance to go to school, they have to work. I can't speak for their happiness (who liked school, anyways?), and yet it's understood not every aspect of Mexican life is a romantic and free as I somestimes wanna believe.

The time in the city flies by and and holds more entertainement, like a mediocre cooking class, which turns out more fun as we dine on our experiments with free Mezcal, singing German, Norwegian and Australian drinking songs with the chef's mom. Needless to say, the next day I feel like shit and since we had to leave our dorm, Maik and I are hangovering on the hostel couch until we can meet up with our couchsurfing host Jason. He takes us out with friends and we go to a proper local pub, without a sign over the door but a messy room including a blasting karoke machine, Jesus pictures on the wall and 2for1 beer promotion - I drink juice that night. We got lucky being hosted by Jason as we connect easily and he takes us to a flatwarming party, to where the taxi ride is an adventure, the wind blows a foul air from the river onto the terrace and we play "never have I ever" until we run out of booze; to frisbee practise, which is chaos itself and hard for me to bare, but of course features a ton of cool people and we go drinking fresh coconut water afterwards; and to the cinema on our last night, where we watch the amazing "Black Panther" for 3€. So yeah, it's hard to not fall in love with Oaxaca.

The following journey to San Jose de Pacifico at 2000m altitude, halfway to the Oaxacan coast, turned out another adventure: for reasons unknown, our colectivo driver decides to take a detour over farm roads, that are clearly not made for a big, square car and include steep, sandy parts but of course no road signs. We were lost in the middle of the desert, driving around until the paved road in a small village suddenly ends like on a cliff and I curse myself for having wished for more excitement. Hopefully we don't have to cross any rivers, I think, just before we have to drive through a stream with big rocks, but of course it goes well. Most of the other passengers don't seem too concerned, the driver happily jokes with his company over the radio, but I'm more on the exhausted side as we reach our destination. 

To not turn this post into a book, again, I'll sum up the 4 beautiful days there: We stay in a shaggy hostel and I haggle for a better price (first time trying, very proud), we meet a fun Finnish couple and enjoy the amazing views and looking at the stars through our window at night. During a small but strenous hike, I thought: One reason why I like hiking so much despite it being strenuous, is that it gives me no excuses, no chance to quit. I just have to go on, bit by bit, complaining or not, got a place to reach by the end of the day. I can be a super lazy person, so I have to put myself in situations under pressure. Like I tried learning Spanish at university, but couldn't get the hang of it, and I quit after one semester of barely managing to say hello. Now I'm traveling around Mexico having  to speak Spanish and getting better at it while being lazy most of the time. Win-win.

And then, my oh my, came Zipolite. Having a reputation as a hippie beach, we landed right where we belong. The hostel of our choice is available and the people there add up to it's near perfection. It's about 1 min walking to the beach, which features dangerous waters with a strong undercurrent and furthermore tons of naked people. I was thinking: Nude beaches make so much sense! It's a great liberating feeling and besides, when going into the water and getting all wet, it doesn't seem smart to wear clothes. And here it's warm enough, even without the sun the wind sends a warm breeze. I see some people still wear clothes, some wear only some, many are naked. The Argentinian girl from our hostel is topless, taking selfies, and the Mexican with the clear blue eyes plays frisbee with me without clothes. Nobody seems to care (no "raised eyebrows by locals", as the Lonely P. said) and, oh, look, there's the hippie with the long ding-dong!
The days fly by even faster, the sun is hot but the water is fresh and keeps you busy not to drown. We watch the dogs play at the beach, smoke in the hammocks and create a social web that almost makes me feel like having close friends again. Especially the Finnish couple Maria and Mitja are fun to hang out with, they come around to our hostel a lot, we cook, and guess to defeated some pool pros in a game of billard?! Ok, we take this stupid boat tour to see whales but don't see any, just turtles and more beaches, where we have to wear clothes (duh!). But my disappointment melts in the sun and the water washes off the frustration. Maik and I keep saying, we will leave tomorrow, only to change our minds after wondering, why should we leave paradise? Maik learns how to surf and I watch the sunrise on the beach, and then we depart, finally, sadly. Our schedule is pulling us towards the frisbee tournament in a few days and we really wanna play a beach tournament in Mexico. But conveniently on the way there lies one last (bear with me!) beautiful stop in Oaxaca, the Laguna Chacahua.

We may have not seen the northern lights when we visited Iceland a couple of years ago, but the bioluminescent lights in the water must have your active dictionary reduced to "wow." just as well. We took a boat into the lagoon, dipping our hands into the water and leaving a sparkly trail, glowing fish appear, it's unbelievable. Rowing through the mangroves at night, between the roots sticking out of the water, has a mystical feeling to it. We even take a swim on the riverbank after confirming that the crocodiles of the lagoon don't like to come to this part of the water.
And for those who wanna have a slightly safer swimming experience, there is also a beach with a not-quite-as-deadly undercurrent as Zipolite. So no matter which way we turn from our camping spot, there's always water on one end. We're staying with Tia Mode, an older Jamaican women running a guest house/ campground with restaurant right on the beach but a little outside of the village. And if you eat there and sleep in your own tent, you pay nothing for accomodation. The food is amazing and Tia and her woman make fresh Quesadillas for us even at 10pm. Because we can only spend 2 nights there, the social interactions are somewhat shallow but this time I don't mind. No one wants to make friends and say goodbye to them all of the time... Maik and I decide to go to the beach on our secod night, and, wow, did we not expect that - because nobody had told us! The waves were glowing! It  was even more impressive because it was so bright, this time I was able to take pictures! We sat there under the stars for at least on hour, watching the waves crashing in, thinking: No mames, wey!

When we said, Chiapas was great and we loved the warm-hearted people, well, little did we know what gems were hidden in Oaxaca. But not only the wonders and of this country get to me. In my diary I write a lot about how I enjoy the simple things again, a cup of coffee in the sun, listening to music, and so on. It's been a while since I was this relaxed, since stressful jobs and stupid flatmates in Germany had worn me down. Now I'm slowly learning to love myself again, which may sound super cheesy and banal, but looking into the mirror and smiling at that stupid face looking back at you, that's not to be mastered easily.


* dictionary
chingon = fucking great
chido = cool
Tia = aunt
No mames, wey! = You gotta be fucking kidding me, dude!


Our route in Chiapas and Oaxaca:

the beach south of Pijijiapan

saying goodbye to Eliana and daughter at the bus station

view over Oaxaca City from Monte Alban

la Mama at the cooking course/ Mezcal party

hostel dog comforts me with my cat (Kater)

San Jose de Pacifico

Maria and Mitja in Zipolite

dangerous to swim, so better surf

Zipolite sunrise

Zwischen den Zeiten

Excuse me, my English speaking fellows, inspiration came to me in German again. Who knows, if we keep meeting  chido  Mexicans, maybe someday I'll post something in Spanish...

So, 18.2.
Der Weg zum Vulkan beginnt wie alle anderen mit einem Colectivo. Wir müssen nicht nach dem passenden suchen, es kommt uns am Eingang seines Nestes in Tapachula entgegen. Der Fahrer winkt aufgeregt, wir winken fröhlich zurück und es wird mitten auf der Straße angehalten, damit wir einsteigen können. Keine 2 Minuten später nächster Halt: Markt, augenblicklich werden wir umringt von diversen Gerüchen und Verkäufern, die sich emsig plappernd ins Auto drängen. Aber bei Churros für 30ct sagen wir ausnahmsweise ja. Cooler Service! Weiter geht's durch die Straßen Tapachulas, kleines Straßenrennen mit einem anderen Colectivo, dann volle Kanne in die Eisen steigen, da passt noch jemand rein ins Auto! Nun ist die Schicksalgemeinschaft komplett und wie Maik treffend feststellt, können viele Mitfahrer quasi polsternd die fehlenden Gurte ersetzen. Auch das letzte kurvige Stück Bergstraße nehmen wir mit Nackenschmerzen und Humor: Besuch aufm Jahrmarkt ist mit dieser Fahrt erledigt.

Mexikanische Autofahrer wird man nicht wie z.B. Vietnamesen oder Napelesen an der globalen Spitze der Verkehrs-Chaos-Skala finden (meiner Erfahrung nach - und jaja, Verallgemeinerungen...). Jedoch sprechen der gebraucht-verbeulte Zustand vieler PKWs und das schüchtern anmutende Verhalten der Fußgänger von einer einzigen simplen Regel: "Sei auch du ein Lümmel im Verkehrsgetümmel!" Blinken ist was für Angeber und wenn überhaupt, dann gleich beidseitig, so als Universalsignal für alle Gelegenheiten! Achtung, scharfe Kurve: Warnblinker. Ich bremse demnächst: Warnblinker. Ich biege ab, rate mal wohin: Warnblinker. Und so weiter. Die Hupe ist ebenfalls Kommunikationsmittel, va um als Taxifahrer potentielle Kunden zu verschreck...äh...aufmerksam zu machen oder sich bei Kreuzungen die Vorfahrt zu sichern. Auch nach fast 3 Monaten in Mexiko bin ich mir nicht sicher, ob es ein rechts vor links gibt oder eher wer zuerst kommt, mahlt zuerst. Aber keine Sorge, das Unfallrisiko scheint in diesem Sinne meist gebremst vom Mangel an Aggression, zumindest gegenüber anderen Fahrern.

Wie gesagt, viele Menschen hier scheinen als Kind in ein Entspannungsbadfass gefallen zu sein, da kann die Mugge noch so aufdringlich aus den Lautsprechern dröhnen, es käme nie jemand auf die Idee sich zu beschweren. Und wenn schon das Colectivo abseits der Gangschaltung keine akustische Unterhaltung bietet, dann hat bestimmt einer der Fahrgäste ein Handy mit potenten Lautsprechern. Gerne auch mehrere Geräte, parallel zu den unendlichen Filmen auf langen Busfahrten. Generell fasziniert mich die Geräuschkulisse hier am meisten, und darüber hinaus meine eigene Toleranz ihr gegenüber. In Europa, den USA und überhaupt vielen Ländern scheint es ja sowas wie den Anspruch auf Ruhe zu geben, in Mexiko gibt es n Satz heiße Ohren. Party zu Weihnachten mit Dezibel im Düsenjet-Bereich von Mitternacht bis 5, direkt neben dem Campingplatz? Ich höre niemanden meckern. In der Pizzeria läuft ein Film, der mit Schüssen und Explosionen die eigenen Kaugeräusche schluckt? Kenne keinen, den es juckt. Werbung lässt sich auch am besten akustisch realisieren, über Lautsprecher am Autodach. Und wenn der Gasflaschen-Verkäufer durch die Straßen fährt, hört man das am lauten Scheppern der Kette, die am Heck baumelt (klingt wie die Glocken eines Weihnachtsschlittens, ihr könnt euch meine Enttäuschung vorstellen als keine Pferde auftauchten). Kindergeschrei, Autoabschließ-Hupe, Hunde-Gebell und natürlich Shopping-Soundtrack, also ohrenbetäubende Musik in vielen Geschäften, und niemand zuckt auch nur mit der Wimper. Und ich habe mich erfolgreich angepasst - man ist halt nicht allein auf der Welt - und zu Weihnachten einfach Oropax reingemacht.

Aber ich schwiff ab. Wir fuhren am Fuße des Vulkans durch die dschungeligen Kaffeeplantagen, welche gerade in voller Blüte stehen und herrlich duftend durch die Fenster des Colectivos wehen. Beim Gedanken an den Aufstieg zum Gipfel morgen, kommt mir allerdings innerlich das Bibbern, aus Furcht vor dem Äußerlichen. Soll heißen: Sommerschlafsäcke!!, und obwohl es um einen Vulkan geht, soll es nachts schweinekalt werden, also Pappkartons packen oder doch Feuer im Zelt? Es bleibt spannend, sogar für uns.

Mi 21.2.
Das war mal keine gute Idee mit der Jeans! Im Bus Richtung Tschijischiapan (oder wie das heißt) ist es kackenwarm und zum ersten Mal erwerben wir bei den Verkäufern, die bei jedem Halt die Gänge mit ihren Fruchtbeuteln, Bananenchips und Getränken ablaufen, eine Cola. Zucker!!! Ersetzt das ausgefallene Frühstück, wir mussten nämlich beim Packen streiten, da Maik meine kleine Kompaktkamera nicht mehr findet. Also das dritte Gerät weg nach der gestohlenen Powerbank in Tulum und meinem vergessenen Handy in Santa Kannstmichma. Mitten in unseren Frust platzte dann auch noch eine Dame des Hotels mit der Aufforderung, doch bitte das Zimmer zu zahlen und wollte den Gutschein über 15% Rabatt anfangs gar nicht annehmen. Den hatten wir gestern Abend in einer Pizzeria entdeckt, wo extra für uns 2 vegetarische Pizzen gemacht wurden und wir uns mit den freundlichen Angestellten über den dröhnenden Fernseher hinweg über ihren im Fluss ertrunkenen Chef unterhalten. Union Juarez ist ein kleines Dorf und die Leute lieben Tratsch. Jedenfalls ist der Streit mittlerweile gegessen, die restliche Pizza auch, zum Mittagessen und erspart damit die manchmal frustrierende Suche nach Kadaver-freier Nahrung.

Auf dem Weg zum Krater des Vulkans war das übrigens überhaupt kein Problem, die Menschen auf 2000m Höhe ernähren sich nämlich hauptsächlich von Bohnen und Tortillas (Maismehlfladen), manchmal mit Ei dazu, schön salzig und in viel Fett gebraten. Nach einer stundenlangen Wanderung nur bergauf natürlich das leckerste Essen überhaupt! So wurden wir für günstig Geld zum Essen und Schlafen in die einfachen Holzhütten der Bewohner des Vulkans gebeten, und huch, ist das ein Huhn unterm Tisch? Die Freundlichkeit und Offenheit der Leute ist absolut, voller Staunen betrachtet Maxima meinen Arte-Stoffbeutel, ihr Mann Francisco lächelt durch die fehlenden Vorderzähne. Das Ehepaar ist über 50, sie leben ohne ihre 5 bereits erwachsenen Söhne und außerdem 6 Monate im Jahr ohne Wasser, bis es wieder regnet (dann wird alles aufgefangen, was nicht verdunstet). Gegen 19 Uhr liegen wir in der dunklen Hütte auf dem gestampften Lehmboden, direkt neben einer Henne mit ihren Küken unter den Flügeln. Am nächsten Morgen Aufbruch vor dem aufziehenden Nebel, uns werden für die Nacht auf dem Krater 2 dicke Decken, die bitte nicht dreckig werden sollen, Waschen ist schwer in der Trockenzeit. Aber sie retten die Nacht! Nach einem Vormittag, wo Maik und ich 1000 Höhenmeter überwinden, stehen wir in der ersehnten Kraterzone, endlich, aber Moment mal! Wo ist den der Rauch, war der Vulkan nicht semi-aktiv? Und wieso liegt hier so viel Müll? Aber cool, die Grenze zu Guatemala geht direkt durch den flachen Platz und wir bauen unser Zelt im anderen Land auf. Dann noch eine Runde Frisbee über die Grenze spielen, abends zum Sonnenuntergang auf den 100m höheren Gipfel und dieses Wahnsinnsgefühl genießen, über den Wolken zu schweben. Am nächsten Morgen überrascht es mich nicht, dass außen und innen am Zelt eine dünne Eisschicht ist, denn es war schweinekalt, und ich bin froh als halb 6 der Wecker klingelt. Kaum wieder auf dem Gipfel, küssen uns die ersten Sonnenstrahlen guten Morgen und lassen den Vulkan einen langen Schatten werfen. Den Abstieg haben wir wohl etwas überhastet, ab der Hälfte des Weges verspüre ich krasse Knieschmerzen links (wie schon in Monterrey) und gehe am Stock. Aber dennoch faszinierend der Nebelwald knapp unter 2000m, diese riesigen Farne und schier unendlich-grünen Berghänge, mysteriöse Baumfrüchte und dann der Abzweig, wo wir hochzu dachten, das wäre ne Abkürzung, nur um beim Friedhof zu landen. Aber nein, einen Führer braucht man nicht, immerhin reicht unser Spanisch mittlerweile über die Bierbestellung hinaus und die Menschen am Vulkan helfen gern bei der Wegfindung.

So konnten wir trotz kleiner Umwege auch diesen Ausflug als Erfolg verbuchen, oder sagen wir lieber, den Strand haben wir uns verdient! Vor allem unsere Waden schreien nach Ruhe und Streckung, also 3h Busfahrt, kein Problem. Auf dem Weg nach Pijijiapan (wie es eigentlich heißt), sausen die Eindrücke vom Vulkan und den Leuten durch meinen Kopf, mischen sich mit der Vorfreude über die Küste und den Weg ins Ungewisse, keine Ahnung, wo wir heute Abend unser Lager aufschlagen werden. Und dann ist da noch diese Einsamkeit, mitten unter all den Mitfahrern, die Rastlosigkeit trotz der Vorwärtsbewegung, ach und überhaupt vermisse ich meine Freunde. Vielleicht einfach Musik hören und die Gedanken schweifen lassen? Aber meine Playlists habe ich seit der Arbeit auf der Farm bisschen über... Wie vom Universum geschickt taucht tatsächlich kurz darauf ein Musiker im Bus auf und spielt einige mexikanische Klassiker (vermute ich) auf seiner Gitarre. Vom Text verstehe ich kaum ein Wort, aber mein Herz singt mit, schwitzend und sowieso, Mexiko, du bist schon cool.

About Chiapas, Chilas and Chapati

Today is a day we connect. From far in the mountains I came to bring you the stories of our simple farm life (in which we don't farm). Over the hills around Teopisca, more than 20 minutes after the cadena (which doens't exist anymore) at Ojo de Aqua, you must walk to find the little paradise Chilas and Alice have built and where Maik and I currently work our time away. How did we find it? Well, first of all we didn't...

After traveling into Chiapas and spending some time in jungle-like Palenque and then San Cristobal de la Resistancia (stories will follow), it was finally time to involve in the basic life of locals. From where the colectivo dropped us in the small town of Teopisca, we started heading towards a farm we had found in the internet, equipped with only a short description Alice had given us: "take a tuk-tuk and go to ojo de aqua, tell the driver 'hasta la cadena' and then walk up the hill for 15-20mins until a cobb house on the right side with a sign 'temascal'..." Since many streets in smaller (and bigger) places in Mexico don't have names and probably because I'm less worried when traveling, I didn't question these informations or asked for more. Our tuktuk-driver didn't really seem to know where that cadena (chain) is, but dropped us right in front of one, so we loaded up our big bags and started walking uphill, fast because we had only 1,5hrs of daylight left. Then the road goes downhill. Wait, what? Also a lot of houses here, hm, maybe we're on the wrong track because there is more than one chain around here... It took inquiring 3 different people and walking for about 45mins before we were back where we started but found a helpful farmer who knew the place of our desire and drew us a map. Then it took almost another hour and a steep hill until we finally reached the rancho. Alice had already been worried and told us, usually everbody in town knows the cadena... And we'd thought, maybe the thin description lets only the strongest and smartest workers reach their destination. Whatever, once we saw the people and the place, any upset feelings disappeared and I felt like Christmas had come. The piece of land was tranqil and beautiful, 1ha of bushes, trees and some meadows, the little farm house sitting right on a little stream. Which is also the one and only source of running water, the necessary heat comes from the gas stove or fire, energy for lights is given by the sun. That's it! Now power outlets, wifi or even a bathroom. Chilas had started building the house when Alice was pregnant with their boy Tanok (now 2 years old) and now it's growing bit by bit. When I told Nadine back home what we were doing all day long, for example collecting firewood, getting water or helping building walls, she said:"You don't even have walls?" Well, we do, there is a room for voluneers and one for the family where we also cook and sit at night in front of the fire. But the kitchen needed some extra pieces, a heap of clay here, some plastic covers there, how fascinating to help building an actual house!

But wait, why do I keep mentioning fires, isn't it hot in Mexico? Hm, we wish, especially at night, when it's 6°C and we have to remember we're at 2000m altitude. Right now the weather treats us nicely, though and sends warm sunshine during the day, allowing us to walk around in shorts and to take cold baths from the river. We've already spent about 2 weeks up there, and because I don't wanna bore myself by writing too many details that are better understood on any photo*. it's highlight time again!


Fri Jan 26th:
First morning, woken up by Tanok's excited voice, the sound of the small stream and the birds in the trees. Did I say how lucky I feel? The day goes by so quickly, filled with easy work and lots of dog cuddling.

In front of Alice and Chilas' property is another one where clay houses and some kind of comunity are built. That's where Kevin lives, who usually helps us and who is Tanok's favourite playing partner, he calls him KABIN!!!


Sat Jan 27th:
Who needs a bathroom or shower when you can take a hot bath outside under the stars? Together Maik and I are soaking in the hot water, while candles flicker and the jungle night around us takes a deep breath. Yep, solid choice of place!


Sun Jan 28th:
Driving the bumpy road into dowtown to go to the market, and we're shopping like savages. As we inquire the price for a pumpkin, the vendors just give it to us for free. Even Chilas is surprised, me too, though, really, the people here are always super friendly. Did you know that Chiapas, the state we're currently in, is one of the poorest in Mexico?


Mon Jan 29th:
The sun is on holiday and left us with slight rains and cold winds. But there's always enough work to be done inside and a warm fire at the end of the day. Also maybe it's the hard work, but the vegetarian/ vegan food Alice always makes is so yummy, I start wondering what I used to need a fridge for. Also every unexpected guest I view with suspicous eyes in case they stay for dinner and we have to share our chapatis.


Tues Jan 30th:
The whole crowd goes off to collect firewood in a steady drizzle, but chopping off branches keeps us warm. We pass by 2 horses and the foal looks at me curiously, I feel like establish a connection and that we'll be best friends... Look how it stares at me with big eyes, unmovingly! Then the foal starts peeing and runs away after, maybe laughing a little at me from the distance.


Wed Jan 31th:
Full moon and it's energy is good for temascal, the Mexican steam bath. At our neighbor's place, lava stones are heated up in a fire and then brought into a small igloo-like house, where we pour water on them and sing hippie songs, sweating and admiring the sparkles and the fine smell of pine sap.


Thur Feb 1st:
Painting the kitchen walls inside with a mixture of chalk and water. Incredible difference and impressive how you nature seems to supply everything you need.

Suddenly a whole lot of ants appear out from the woods, surrounding a house in hundreds of thousands like moslems the Kabah. We keep a close eye on them, fearing for our unprotected food, but they just pass by, maybe looking for another home.

Fri Feb 2nd:
One of these nights where Chilas, Kevin, Maik and I stay up late, hanging out in the new or old kitchen, and also Alice joins after Tanok is sleeping. The language barrier between our pequeño español and Chilas' little English is easily overcome by two dice-like pigs in a frisbee, walking barefoot over wine while smoking some churros and sipping mezcal.

Sat Feb 3rd:
After half a day of work, the family, Kevin, Maik and us go on a small hike in the hills around us. Off the beaten track, through the bushes and over a fence we walk, trees are climbed and a baby mouse is saved from our dogs' fangs who were sniffing in a hole. Without a plan and taking some detours, we make it back to the house just for sunset.

Sun Feb 4th:
After smoking out some hornets (and our clothes) to keep them from building a nest in the ceiling in our room, Maik and I go down to Teopisca with our farmers, who continue on to San Cristobal where they live the other half of the week, so we'll look after the rancho until their return on Thursday. But first it's market and internet time! The quesadillas we eat on a food stand near the market are accompanied with free drinks and a nice chat with the owners, who invite us to their home later. And if we thought this was the highlight of the day, the pearls of Mexican friendliness had another treasure in the human form of Augustin, friend of Chilas. As Maik and I wanted to watch the Superbowl and thought about spending the night in a hotel, Chilas just asked his friend and drew us a map how to get to his place. So we were honored with the big flat screen from the bed room, a piece of cake and the general hospitality of Augustin, who we hadn't met before and who doesn't even care about American Football. Imagine taking in 2 foreign Mexicans so they can watch a boring sport in your home, because that's the level of friendliness here!

Mon Feb 5th:
The first day alone on the farm goes well, we work in the walls with good tunes, have a nice lunch with Kevin and others from the community and spent a ridiculously romantic evening in front of the fire, taking turns making the cat purr and listening to long forgotten music on my mp3-player.


Tue Feb 6th:
Maik's stomach decided at night: this food shall pass! He spent half the night feeding semi-processed food to the dogs and the day in bed while I did the laudry, sewed clothes, cooked food and -don't worry, feminists- started organizing the compost. I was a tiny bit worried about him since we were alone, without phone or medicine, but Kevin showed me a plant to make tea with that helps with digestion problems. Either it did or it was only a sun stroke, but Maik was better in the afternoon and we even had dinner together. I made chapati and black beans that were still a bit hard... (cause here they don't come in cans, ya know)

Wed Feb 7th:
That's today. Or at least the day I started writing this. Maik is fine again and we've walked down the hill for 30mins to do our ritual of buying a cup of fresh orange juice for less than 1euro and then settling in an internet cafe. We've tried a few but it's a small town and the connection is slow.

*I haven't really been able to upload many photos to my website, it takes an hour for 10, so let's hope the SD card survives until we're back somewhere better connected... But still there'll be a new album of Chiapas soon, if you want the photos of Palenque and San Cristobal before the stories.
For now, here are some mobile impressions of our paradise:

entrance to the farmhouse

the new kitchen

our room from outside

garden behind the house

after breakfast on the stream

coolest hot tub in Mexico

chopping firewood

with inspirational Chilas and Alice

The couple lazily lies but time flies

Wait, it's been only 3 weeks since New Year's and the last post here? In this time-twisted alternative reality we call traveling, it feels like 2 months have passed. Slow and lazy days are followed by eventful ones, usually leaving me without a grasp what day it is today. But I've talked about this before, let's rather go back to what happened after Christmas and until Merida.

Without a guide book, we just rely on the tips of fellow travelers about what places to see. In Tulum someone said, the ruins of Calakmul are a real hot spot, totally worth the isolated location and not crowded by tourists yet - but you need your own car because taxis are expensive. We ignored the last part of the advice and headed to the tiny village of Conhuas (60kms away from Calakmul) by public transport again.

We didn't find an ATM on the way and only a rather expensive cabana in Conhuas (40€/night), but the owner Mimi was very helpful and laughed at my strange approaches on the Spanish language. As many Mexicans before she was happy I even tried and also said how well I was speaking. Well... On a walking tour around the village we organized a taxi to Calakmul for the next morning at the top price of 60€, counted our cash and just had enough for buying some beer. Later we played frisbee with 11 year old Misael at the cabanas and had a small affordable dinner. Then Mimi told us about a Mecican couple going from here to the ruins by car the next morning, who would be willing to take us. Now aren't we lucky bastards?

The Calakmul ruins turned out to be as interesting and relatively empty as we were told, and also the statement "better have your own car" wasn't exaggerated as getting to the place means a 1,5 hrs drive through the jungle from the main road. We saw some monkeys up in the trees, different bigger and smaller birds and another tiny fox, enough to keep up our excitement and wander through the large area for over 4hrs. The experience was slightly spoiled because silly me forgot her ibuprofen and since sun and workouts aren't helping migraines, Maik had to climb the last temple by himself. When Maik and I returned to the parking lot to meet up with the Mexican couple, their car was gone. We realized they had said to leave at 12 (which sounds like "doze") and not 2 ("dos"). So much for my great Spanish skills... Now panic settled in. How do we get out of here? I swallowed down the urge to cry, argued a little with Maik about why he hadn't listened more carefully because he's better understanding numbers, until caving in, putting out our thumbs and leaving it to destiny. Surely after 10mins a car with 3 young Mexicans stopped and took us back to Conhuas, chatting along the way and having a good time. They suggested Champoton as a place worth a visit, so that's where Maik and I went next.

Now some summaries about the rather unexciting following days, can't drain my memory for details or even my own patience for endless reports of every little adventure.

Champoton: not worth a visit because nothing there, except a nice big market and many old VW Beetles making us wanna buy one and drive around Mexico with it.

Campeche: pretty with colourful houses and a waterfront, but no beach. Stayed in a good hostel with roof terrace and kitchen, but New Year's was rather quiet and we mostly entertained ourselves reading a lot, searching for book stores and eating yummy churros.

Edza: the ruins near Campeche were 

worth a look but the encounter with a guide called Elvis de Jesús, showing us where to find the colectivo back to town, was my real highlight.

Santa Elena: purely black and white experience for me, because we found a place to camp, which was in a beautiful green, jungle-like Inn with pool, but I also involuntarily donated my smartphone to the internet café...

Ok, this was bound to happen I believe. One of my New Year's resolutions was to spend more quality time with myself. So the new year came and took away my phone, or maybe I left it subconsciously to make it easier to focus on myself. Or probably I'm just stupid. When I noticed it was gone, I went back to the café but noone had seen it. Of course, there was panic. Then anger,

frust and sadness. I am disabled!! Cut off from the world, from my friends ... Also what will the new owner do with all the information on my phone? The last photo I took had been Maik's naked butt in the pool, and the explanation for this isn't helpful: it's a tradition and was gonna be a postcard to friends.

Well, about 30mins after my loss, I felt coming to terms with it, accepting the situation as unchangeable as bad weather. It must have been the level of relaxation you only get when traveling, because I bet if I'd lost my phone at home, a feeling of catastrophe would have me speaking about monsoons instead. Also because my ankle was almost back to normal, I reminded myself how lucky I was being healthy. So go and have fun with my f*cking phone, Santa Elena!

Oxkutzkab: small Mayan town with huge market, nice hotel and pool again, bad pizza and no photos of a stunning cave with stalagmites used as drums because I forgot my camera (in the hotel room!!!). Highlight was the only real café being opened up in the morning just for us, so we had real coffee and a nice chat with the young owner. 

Mayapan: ruins on the way to Mérida, left our bags at the entrance and were the only people amongst ancient stones and countless lizards.

Mérida:

Maik and I are still in one piece, no major complaints healthwise and finally couchsurfing, which is of course fantastic and interesting, but above all nice to not be a customer. One reason I don't like staying in hotels and sometimes even hostels is that there are so many services I'd rather do myself, like cleaning up or making my bed. Personal space is something really important to me and while traveling I very often only have my bed to retrieve to when wanting some peace and quiet. So someone else coming into 'my' room and messing with my organized chaos intimidates and upsets me, especially when the rests of our pizza are thrown away...! Maybe caring so much about personal space is mostly infueled by my ego and therefor an issue to be worked on, but there are other things higher up on my to-do-list.

Like not being distracted by a phone! It was going well without one, apart from the times I stole Maik's or missed messaging with my friends. The goal to not get a new one until my birthday was slowly shrinking, despite finding creative alternatives to a phone's application like a stopwatch when doing fitness - just use a microwave!

Ok, this has already been a long post, so Merida highlights include: meeting interesting people in a hostel, going to Cenotes (water caves) with one of them, couchsurfing, going to salsa night with some other couchsurfers and buying incredibly cheap fruits and veggies at the market.

Buying a night bus ticket to Palenque (Chiapas) for January 14th was the end of Yucatan for Maik and me, and because I'm quite sure everyone else but us will be confused about where exactly we've been on the peninsula, I made a map!

Also I've reorganized our photos on my webpage and created 3 different albums for Quintana Roo, Campeche and Yucatan, so it doesn't take forever to load the pictures! 

Hope your eyes are enjoying the images now created in your minds as much as we love being in Mexico! After over a month here, we're well tanned, chilled out and soon to be broke. More stories will follow on our next Skype date!

Besos! :)

Calakmul

Conhuas

Santa Elena

Campeche

Ednza

Road to Santa Elena

Kabah

Grutas near Oxkutzkab

Coffee addicts and savior

Mayapan

Mérida